“Waking up every morning to the sounds of a village coming to life. The smell of fresh bread and good coffee, life doesn’t get any better than this.”
Whether it be the Etruscan fortress towns such as Cortona (home of the author Frances Mayes) or lesser known towns such as Montelaterone in Grosetto province Tuscan genuinely does have something for everyone.
Over the years we have gravitated to Cortona, and made this the centre of our stay, branching out and exploring this truly wonderful part of the world. This year, we opted for a change, and based ourselves in a part of Tuscany we had hitherto not explored, the province of Grosetto. we found a charming little apartment in Montelaterone, in the commune of Arcidosso, the nearest larger town.
We made the journey from Leonardo da Vinci airport in Rome in just under 2.5 hours, straight up the E80, for 168 kilometres and then after diverting off onto the Strada Provinicale, SP64 to be precise. We wound our way into the much more forested and hilly part of the region. One thing that became immediately apparent, is that it is much more green and verdant than the country around Cortona, being fairly mountainous it would appear they have a deal more rainfall. Once we left the motorway, after just over an hours drive, the trip to Montelaterone took a further hour to cover only 30 or so kilometres. It didn’t matter though as the views are stunning. Slightly before the town of Arcidosso, the signs showed Montelaterone, and we headed off on a very tortuous narrow road that wound up and up towards what seemed to be a tiny hamlet perched as they all are on the top of a significant hill.
When we reached the village itself. The road only went so far, before petering out to a dirt track. On the top of the hill sat an imposing fortress, long abandoned, but nevertheless imposing. Our hosts agreed to meet us down in the village and guide us up. On arrival, we parked under the castle walls, the final leg to be taken on foot as we navigated ancient medieval cobbled terraces and streets down into the depths of the village. We eventually came out onto a steep little passageway and there was our home for the next two weeks, Casa Amiata, a very old medieval house deep in the heart of the village, the only access is on foot, and also luggage had to be carried or dragged from the car to the house. If you like rustic, then this is the house for you, amenities are fairly basic, although spotless, and the hosts left wine from their own vineyard as well as a few local treats, including home made myrtle jam.
The house consists of one room downstairs, that includes a kitchen area, and one room upstairs with a small bathroom off. It is really charming, although only suitable for couples, and then in perfect health, the walk alone as well as the stairs would be a challenge for the less mobile or infirm. Susan likes to sit outside on the terrace of a morning to enjoy her coffee and breakfast, the only terrace here is the small patch of terracotta as you approach the large oak door. Typical of mountain homes, the walls are thick, and the windows small, because of its location overlooking the valley, if you open the bedroom window not only is the view stunning, but the breeze is a real boon, especially as there is no air conditioning.
If like us you use your accommodation as a base, then it is perfect, however if you like to spend time at the villa or apartment, then there is little to do and nowhere really to relax. That being said, the owners have tried really hard to make it as comfortable and welcoming as possible.
The bedroom is accessed by the standard cool terracotta steps and is dominated by the bed and armoire. The bed itself is an experience, and as hard as nails, we “softened it by using the spare bedding in the armoire to act as an additional mattress. The other thing to notice was the huge amount of towels, nearly every drawer and shelf was stuffed with the most colourful array of towels you could imagine.
The bathroom is more of a gallery attached to the bedroom. the width of the shower cubical at one end, and then toilet and bidet, finished by the sink at the opposite end. The shower itself was hot and powerful, and as has been said everything was very clean. Much attention has been paid to details with pictures and rustic implements adorning the walls. The first thing we did was to find a supermarket (in Arcidosso) and buy a fan- very necessary for the hot nights as the windows have no netting screens, and have to be closed.
It is obviously very cold in the winter as there is a stove in the bedroom and one downstairs in the kitchen and seating area.
The most we used the kitchen for was to make coffee and open wine, there are some really good restaurants within a short drive of the village, and so we ate out all the time. It is also worth noting that here are no shops in the village, save a verity basic selection of goods in the small bar.
Montelaterone is great if you want to get away from it all, it is certainly very peaceful and remote, perched high above the valley. We visited many towns and even ventured to the coast for a day at the beach. I would recommend a visit, you won’t be disappointed by this little patch of Tuscany, it isn’t what you picture as typically Tuscan, but it is nevertheless charming.
Set in Montelaterone in the Tuscany region, Casa Amiata has a balcony and garden views. The property is 50 km from Montepulciano and free private parking is offered. This holiday home is fitted with 1 bedroom, a satellite flat-screen TV, a dining area, and a kitchen with a fridge and an oven. A barbecue is available for guests at the holiday home to use. Saturnia is 37 km from Casa Amiata, while Bagno Vignoni is 31 km from the property.
Casa Amiata Delle Mura 32 – 58031MONTELATERONE
GPS coordinates : 42.88788, 11.51309
The owner is called Nadia, and she is Lovely.